Flow Characteristics of the Rip Current System near a Shore-Normal Structure with Regular Waves

Abstract

Rip currents are the strong narrow seaward current produced by waves breaking on the coast. Of the many types of rip currents, the present study investigates, experimentally and numerically, the rip current system produced by the wave reflection on a finite-length shore-normal structure (corresponding to groin, jetty and headland in a real-word environment) with strong wave reflection strength. The incident wave condition of an obliquely propagating monochromatic surface gravity wave is considered for the bottom topographies of planar and barred beaches without or with a rip channel. The corresponding laboratory experiment was conducted and used to validate the numerical model. A set of higher order Boussinesq equations is used to reproduce the experimental observation and produce the results for the related prototype cases, with the latter considering more factors which may influence the formation and evolution of rip current flow patterns. The resulting rip current system contains two parts: the node rips formed due to the presence of the longshore standing wave in the wave reflection field and the deflection rip formed due to the interaction between the incoming longshore current and the reflection wave field mentioned above. A new formation mechanism of the deflection rip has been proposed, i.e., the deflection rip is formed by the meeting and then deflection of the longshore current and lateral flow. The effects of different wave reflection strengths of the structure, wave incident angles and bathymetric conditions on the pattern and flow volume of the deflection rip are also studied.

Keywords

• rip currents
• deflection rips
• standing wave field
• Boussinesq modeling
• planar and barred beach