Cosmetics (Jan 2022)

Cosmetic Potential of a Recombinant 50 kDa Protein

  • Nesma Aly,
  • Emilie Benoit,
  • Jean-Luc Chaubard,
  • Kavyasree Chintalapudi,
  • Soojin Choung,
  • Monique de Leeuw,
  • Matthew Diaz,
  • Dan Dueppen,
  • Bryce Ferraro,
  • Valerie Fischetti,
  • Evan Gassaway,
  • Isabelle Hansenne-Cervantes,
  • Arjan Heeres,
  • Christina Karas,
  • Mohamed Khan,
  • Jonathan M. Kral,
  • Srujana Lam,
  • Richel Lartey,
  • Mencius Leonard,
  • Stanley W. Lue,
  • Joshua McDaniel,
  • Kevin Ramirez,
  • Brenna Rauw,
  • Kelly A. Raymond,
  • Catherine Roggero-Lovisi,
  • Scott Rubin,
  • Kristin Ruebling-Jass,
  • Zoë Spiegelhoff,
  • Monica Celise Stewart,
  • Shashwat Vajpeyi,
  • Alejandro Vicente,
  • Kathleen E. Vincent,
  • Jing Wang,
  • David Williamson,
  • Zhihao Yu,
  • Lixin Dai

DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9010008
Journal volume & issue
Vol. 9, no. 1
p. 8

Abstract

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Collagen and its derivative proteins have been widely used as a major component for cosmetic formulations as a natural ingredient and moisturizer. Most commercially available collagens are animal-derived collagen type I and other forms of collagen, such as type III collagen, are far less prevalent in animals, making extraction and purification extremely difficult and expensive. Here, we report the production of a 50 kDa protein produced in yeast that is 100% identical to the N-terminus of the human type III collagen. This recombinant protein has a larger molecular weight than most incumbent recombinant collagen proteins available for personal care applications. We report the industrialization of both the fermentation and purification processes to produce a final recombinant protein product. This final protein product was shown to be safe for general applications to human skin and compatible with common formulation protocols, including ethanol-based formulations. This recombinant collagen type III protein was also shown to uniquely stimulate both collagen type I and type III production and secretion by primary human dermal fibroblasts. The unique combination of biostimulation, compatibility with beauty product formulations and demonstrated commercial production, make this novel recombinant type III collagen a good candidate for broad application in the cosmetics industry.

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