DYEING OF SILK IN EDIRNE RED COLOR WITH MADDER

Abstract

Silk is a natural filament obtained from the Bombyx mori species of silkworm, with a fiber length of up to 3000 meters. During the Ottoman era in Edirne, sericulture and silk trade were important activities. To this end, silk factories, trade centers, and silk weaving schools were established, creating an important source of income for the people of Edirne. Edirne Red is a natural dye obtained from the Rubia Tinctorum L. plant and is part of the Ottoman Empire's heritage. This dye is resistant to sunlight and washing. It has been used in Turkish carpets, as well as in silk and cotton fabrics. The aim of this study is to bring together the importance of Edirne Red and silk in Edirne's history. For this purpose, 100% silk fabrics were dyed using madder (Rubia Tinctorum L.) grown within the borders of Edirne province. The effects of dye ratios and auxiliary chemicals used on color and colorfastness were examined during the dyeing process. The color values of the fabrics were measured numerically in the CIEL*a*b* color space, and the washing and light fastness values of the dyed fabrics were also measured. Additionally, highperformance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analyses were performed on both the used madder and the dyed fabric. Based on the obtained data, the closest Edirne Red color was achieved by pre-mordanting fabric before dyeing and using ethanol as the dye solvent. Madder dye, successfully applied to silk fabrics under different conditions, has shown good results in terms of color yield and fastness properties.

Keywords

• edirne red
• silk
• rubia tinctorum l.
• madder
• fastness
• edirne kırmızısı
• i̇pek
• rubia tinctorum l.
• kök boya
• haslık