Experimental analysis on the effect of fabric structures and seam performance characteristics of weft knitted cotton apparels

Abstract

The objective of present research is to analyze the impact of knitted fabric structures, sewing thread types and stitch types on seam strength, seam slippage, seam pucker, and seam efficiency on quality of garments. Seams are basic necessities in the manufacturing of garments. In general, seam performance has an enormous impact on the garment quality. Seam and stitch types have a positive effect on the quality and appearance of garments. Seams of the garment must be durable and smooth. Stitch and seam types and stitch and seam parameters should be chosen according to the garments and fabrics (single jersey, rib, and interlock) Seam production of a garment also depends on structural and mechanical properties of the fabric such as strength, extensibility, protection, durability, appearance, and efficiency of the seams. The performance of seams also depends on the sewing conditions like size of needle, sewing thread tension, stitches per inch and lastly on the proper working and maintenance of the stitching machine. An experimental design was employed for the analysis which includes two types of sewing thread and four classes of stitch. The results exposed that differences existed between the two dissimilar threads in relation with seam quality Polyester-wrapped threads with a polyester filament core thread shows better seam strength, seam slippage, seam puckering and seam efficiency. It is noted that seam efficiency increases with seam angle and sewing needle type. It has been found that small ball point needle type exhibits poor seam efficiency but an improvement in efficiency has been observed with Medium ball point needle type and conical point needle type for all three knitted fabrics.