Glycosaminoglycans: Sweet as Sugar Targets for Topical Skin Anti-Aging

Abstract

Siew Tein Wang, Boon Hoe Neo, Richard J Betts L’Oréal Research & Innovation, L’Oréal Singapore, SingaporeCorrespondence: Richard J Betts Email [email protected]: Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are long, linear polysaccharides comprised of repeating disaccharide units with pleiotropic biological functions, with the non-sulfated GAG hyaluronic acid (HA), and sulfated GAGs dermatan sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, heparan sulfate, keratan sulfate, and to a lesser extent heparin all being expressed in skin. Their ability to regulate keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation, inflammatory processes and extracellular matrix composition and quality demonstrates their critical role in regulating skin physiology. Similarly, the water-binding properties of GAGs and structural qualities, particularly for HA, are crucial for maintaining proper skin form and hydration. The biological importance of GAGs, as well as extensive evidence that their properties and functions are altered in both chronological and extrinsic skin aging, makes them highly promising targets to improve cosmetic skin quality. Within the present review, we examine the cutaneous biological activity of GAGs alongside the protein complexes they form called proteoglycans and summarize the age-related changes of these molecules in skin. We also examine current topical interventional approaches to modulate GAGs for improved skin quality such as direct exogenous administration of GAGs, with a particular interest in strategies targeted at potentiating GAG levels in skin through either attenuating GAG degradation or increasing GAG production.Keywords: proteoglycan, growth factor, retinoic acid, hyaluronic acid, C-xyloside

Keywords

• proteoglycan
• growth factor
• retinoic acid
• hyaluronic acid
• c-xyloside