Methodology to Reach Full Spectral Photo-Protection by Selecting the Best Combination of Physical Filters and Antioxidants

Abstract

Antioxidants can reduce free radical formation in deeper skin layers where typical sunscreen filters may no longer be effective. Here, a general method is presented to pre-select optimum combinations of antioxidants and physical filters. The radical production of selected common physical filters after UV irradiation, the capacity of different antioxidants and the interaction between these compounds was investigated in solution by optical measurement of DPPH scavenging, allowing a theoretical calculation of the antioxidant amount necessary to scavenge UV-induced radicals. Furthermore, the antioxidant capacity and the scattering properties were determined. All physical filters induced different amounts of radicals in suspensions depending on the coating. ZnO coated with polydimethylsiloxane and myristic acid (ZnOpolymyr) showed the lowest radical formation. Epigallocatechin-gallate (EGCG) provided the highest antioxidant capacity. Different formulations with different ratios of selected physical filters and antioxidants were prepared. It turned out that the high radical protection factor (RPF) of cream formulations, which originally did not contain any physical filters, was reduced when such filters were added. The data demonstrates that the addition of physical filters to antioxidant-containing formulations lowers their reduction capacity, but to varying degrees. An optimal combination of physical filters and antioxidants must be pre-selected in order to incorporate them into a formulation and verify their effect on skin.

Keywords

• sunscreen
• free radicals
• antioxidant capacity
• Asian skin type
• physical filters
• radical protection factor