Imported figured textiles from the Belorechensky burial ground in the collection of the State Hermitage Museum

Abstract

Purpose of the study: The attribution and dating of figured textiles from the Belorechensky burial ground (North Caucasus), study of manufacturing techniques, reconstruction of textile patterns and study of historical aspects related to the problem of the supply and existence of these silks in the region. Research materials: The collection of archaeological materials from the Belorechensky burial ground (collection of the Oriental Department of the State Hermitage) including 22 figured textiles (52 inventory no.), textiles from collections of other institutions (Metropolitan Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum, Cleveland Museum of Art, etc.). Results and scientific novelty of the study: Of the 87 examples of textiles, embroidery, needlework, and threads, 22 examples are related to silk figured textiles. According to the technique, they are divided into velvets, damasks, lampases, and taffeta with pattern weft. Most of the textiles can be associated with the Syro-Egyptian weaving tradition of the 14th-15th centuries. However, there are several examples of Chinese and Italian production, and one damask, the technical features of which make it related not only to Italian and Syro-Egyptian, but also to early 16th century Safavid textiles. In this regard, the dating of the mounds from which these textiles originate was examined and clarified; issues of trade in the Northern Black Sea region were touched upon, as well as non-economic ways of the appearance of high-status imported products.

Keywords

• belorechensky burial ground
• silk
• lampas
• velvet
• damask
• taffeta
• venice
• genoa
• mamluk sultanate