Analysis of the first autochthonous subculture in fashion history: Antimode style of "Incroyables" and "Marveilleuses"

Abstract

This scientific article is devoted to an extremely intriguing topic, so relevant among connoisseurs of fashion history and fashion costume (but not enough among ordinary fashion lovers) and is of great benefit to today's science, fashion and fashion industry, as it relates to the question of how socio-political events can greatly influence the construction of a completely new costume, radically different from the conventional one. One of the main goals of this scientific work is to reconsider and critically analyze the costumes of the most rebellious young people who lived in the late XVIII century. The so-called "Incroyables" and "Merveilleuses" emerged as the first autochthonous subculture in the history of fashion, contributing to fashion through the characteristic elements and variations of men's and women's costumes, thus defining a completely new social ideal of beauty, embodied and expressed with the help of fashionable women's and men's suits from this period. On the other hand, thanks to the knowledge and study of this new way and method of structuring the costume, the horizon is born in which it becomes clear how the new young people appeared after the second half of the 20th century, and the designers of the new age cleverly use accumulated historical material in their creative practice and embody the same in a way so characteristic of the spirit of the time. Due to the fact that fashion has various manifestations, I have also used cross-cultural research methods -attracting certain parts of sociology and structural and systematic analysis..

Keywords

• first autochthonous subculture
• "incroyables" and "merveilleuses"
• late xviii century fashion